While the name “Gigondas” itself does not directly translate to “pleasure” in Latin, this creative expression suggests that indulging in Gigondas AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlee) wine brings about a pleasurable experience.

The wine-producing region of Gigondas is a neighbor to the well-known Chateauneuf-du-Pape and offers an appealing option for enthusiasts of Grenache and Syrah varietals, all while being a more budget-friendly choice. The distinguishing factor between Gigondas and its renowned neighbor lies in the soil composition. Unlike the gravely Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas boasts a soil rich in limestone and sand. Additionally, the higher elevation and verticality of Gigondas’ vineyards contribute to the uniqueness of its terroir.

Looking Back

The historical roots of the French Cotes du Rhone region, where Gigondas is situated, trace back to Roman times. Originally established as a recreational site for the soldiers of the Roman Empire’s Second Legion, this region has cultivated wines that have endured for decades, even receiving recognition with a medal at the Parisian agricultural fair in 1894.

Until the late 19th century, the area was noted for its wine when the grapevine disease of Phylloxera, an aphid from the Eastern United States attacked the roots of the vines. It quickly spread to Rhone and Gigondas, killing many vineyards and threatening the entire industry. The French government brought in experts and scientists to research this new disease seeking to find a solution and even offered a cash reward to anyone who could find a remedy.

The cure arrived in the form of Charles V. Riley, an entomologist from Missouri, who determined that European grapevines could be grafted on American grapevine roots and that the American roots were naturally resistant to Phylloxera offering protection to the European varieties. Slowly, the process of replanting vineyards began all over France including Gigondas.

Impact of Climate

Climate change brings complex problems to wine regions around the world.

For some wineries in the Gigondas region, the situation has brought unexpected success. With rising annual temperatures, once-marginal vineyards are flourishing, ripening grapes fully and with unprecedented speed. Generous and concentrated yet finessed by a uniquely cooler microclimate, wines from these once-troublesome vineyards are now benchmarks for the Domaine.

The successful ripening of grapes depends on a panoply of factors; elevation, exposure, and orientation to the sun, its gradient, latitude, airflow, and surroundings all contribute to its microclimate. At higher elevations, however, temperatures are typically lower. Cooler climates slow the onset of bud break, and the spring awakening of vines from winter dormancy gives grapes a longer, steadier curve to maturity. Temperature also impacts ripeness—when and how grapes amass enough sugar to achieve desired alcohol levels, but also flavor ripeness and phenolic ripeness of skins and tannins.

Vines are currently planted at elevations between 820–1,640 feet. The region’s climate is not defined strictly by altitude though. Beyond altitude, the influence of air currents that flow down from surrounding hills and Mont Ventoux, and the surrounding forest provides a reservoir of cooler air that glides down through the vines at night.

It’s the Grapes

Grenache takes center stage in Gigondas wine production, constituting 70-80 percent of the grape composition. Syrah and Mourvedre play supporting roles, while the inclusion of 10 percent Carignan adds a distinctive touch to the taste profile. Described as earthy, green, and velvety with notes of blackberry jam, Gigondas promises a unique and memorable tasting experience.

The maximum permitted yield of the Gigondas appellation (36/hl/ha) is one of the lowest in France. Each provider carefully crafts their wine in their own way, vinifying grape varieties separately or together, partially or totally destemmed, with a maceration period of 2-4 weeks, depending on the vintage and choice of the individual grower. The wines are partly aged in stainless steel to preserve the fruit profile and part in wooden vats and oak barrels to finesse the tannins. After many months the wines are bottled.

Vineyard Governance

As part of the larger wine landscape, Gigondas falls under the umbrella of France’s 360 appellations. Governed by a meticulous regulatory system wine production is directed, from grape varieties to minimum alcohol levels, aging requirements, and vineyard planting density. This system aims to ensure the production of high-quality wines within legally defined regions, providing transparency to consumers about the origin and production methods of the wines they enjoy. In essence, Gigondas becomes not just a wine but a testament to the art and science of winemaking, inviting consumers to savor a pleasurable journey through its rich history, terroir, and distinctive flavors.

Expanding Product Line

On Thursday, September 8, 2022, the National Institute for Origin and Quality (NAO) voted unanimously in favor of a request to extend AOI Gigondas to white wines, a decision that was 11 years in the making. In 2011, Gigondas Producers Organization (ODG) started a working group of winegrowers and négociants to examine the issue, and experiments were started with white grapes grown in various parts of the appellation area. In 2018 the quality of the trials prompted the organization’s board to approve plans to change production specifications. It was requested that Clairette blanc become the main grape variety (a minimum of 70 percent), fermented on its own or blended with the traditional Rhone Valley grape varieties grown in Gigondas. Two secondary grape varieties, Viognier and Ugni blanc cannot represent more than 5 percent of the varietal range.

Winemakers anticipate that their white wines will garner the same respect as the reds. The region’s star white winegrape, Clairette, is a variety planted extensively throughout the Rhone Valley and in Languedoc where it makes refreshing styles of light and appealing white and sparkling wines. The first releases are projected to reach consumers in 2024.

In My Personal Opinion

At a recent Wine Master Class in New York City, I experienced the wines of Gigondas. My favorites included:

1. 2016 Château de Saint Cosme. Gigondas. Terroir. Limestone marl and Miocene sand. Grape varieties: 70 percent Grenache, 14 percent Syrah, 15 percent Mourvedre, 1 percent Cinsault. Maturated 12 months aging in new casks (20 percent), in casks used 1-4 wines (20 percent), in concrete tanks (30 percent).

This is the leading estate in Gigondas producing the appellation’s benchmark wines. Wines have been produced on this site since Roman times (14th century) evidenced by the ancient Gallo-Roman vats carved into the limestone beneath the chateau. The property has been in the hands of Louis Barruol’s family since 1570.

Henri was one of the first in the region to work organically beginning in the 1970s. Louis Barruol assumed leadership in 1992 and moved the production process to quality, adding a negociant arm to the business in 1997. The winery converted to biodynamics in 2010.

Notes

This wine captivates from the first glance, showcasing a stunning beet-red hue that gracefully transitions to a delicate pink at the rim. This visual display hints at the wine’s nuanced and vibrant character. The aromas that greet the nose are a complex bouquet, offering a sensory journey through layers of dark fruits, evocative gingerbread, luscious blackberries, a subtle hint of pepper, earthiness, and the enticing aroma of wet forest tree bark.

On the palate, the wine unfolds with a symphony of tannins, each contributing to the structural integrity of the wine. These tannins, while present, are not overpowering; instead, they provide a framework that guides the tasting experience. The finish is a testament to the ripeness of the red grapes, lingering on the palate in a harmonious and sustained manner. The very ripe red grapes leave a lasting impression, underscoring the wine’s depth and maturity.

The interplay of dark fruits and the warm, comforting notes of gingerbread create a delightful contrast, adding layers of complexity to the tasting experience. The inclusion of blackberries introduces a sweet and juicy element, while the subtle hint of pepper brings a touch of spice, contributing to the wine’s overall balance.

The earthy notes and the distinct aroma of wet forest tree bark further connect the wine to its terroir, grounding it in a sense of place. This connection to the land imparts a unique and authentic character to the Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas 2016, making it a true expression of the vineyard’s identity.

In summary, this Gigondas 2016 is a masterful composition of flavors and aromas, showcasing the artistry of winemaking at Château de Saint Cosme. From its captivating color to the intricate blend of scents and the lingering finish, each element contributes to a wine that is not only a sensory delight but also a reflection of the vineyard’s commitment to producing wines of exceptional quality and character.

2. 2016. Domaine la Bouissiere. Gigondas Tradition. Terroir: clay, limestone, northwest exposure, located at 350 m altitude. Grape varieties. Grenache (66 percent), Syrah (34 percent). Maturation In tank (35 percent), in oak foudres (65 percent)

This wine is the product of a vineyard nestled on a stony terrace against the picturesque backdrop of the Dentelles mountains. The unique terroir is strategically shielded from sunlight between mid-December and the end of January, a period during which the vines are in a dormant state. The fortunate dormancy aligns with the absence of sunlight, ensuring minimal stress on the vines during this crucial time.

The vines themselves, aged between 30 and 50 years, boast low yields, contributing to the concentration and intensity of the grapes. Notably, Domaine La Bouissiere holds the distinction of being the very last Domaine in Gigondas to commence its harvest. This delay is a result of the combination of optimal exposure and high altitude, fostering a gradual and even ripening of the grapes. This extended ripening period imparts a distinctive elegance and freshness to the final wine, setting it apart from others in the region.

A commitment to organic farming has been a cornerstone of the family’s approach since the 1980s. The vineyard is tended with organic fertilizers, and minimal sulfates are used, showcasing a dedication to sustainable and environmentally conscious practices. Harvesting is a meticulous, hands-on process, with each grape being carefully selected by hand.

The winemaking process at Domaine La Bouissiere reflects a natural and non-interventionist philosophy. The gravitational flow from tank to barrel, as opposed to pumping, is employed, ensuring gentle and respectful handling of the wine. This method contributes to the preservation of the wine’s delicate flavors and aromas.

Vinification is approached with a commitment to letting each vintage express itself naturally. The winemakers adapt their techniques based on the unique characteristics of each varietal, allowing the vintage to dictate the course of fermentation and aging. This bespoke approach results in wines that authentically reflect the nuances of the specific growing season.

Rarely fined or filtered, the wines from Domaine La Bouissiere retain their true character and integrity. This hands-off approach, combined with the estate’s organic practices and meticulous vineyard management, culminates in the creation of the Gigondas Tradition 2016 – a wine that not only captures the essence of the terroir but also embodies the family’s unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability.

Notes

Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas Tradition 2016 is a captivating wine that engages the senses with its deep mahogany hue, almost verging on black. The rich color hints at the complexity that awaits in every sip. The aroma is a symphony of spices, prominently featuring cinnamon, which intertwines with the sweet and enticing fragrance of ripe red cherries.

Upon first sip, the palate is treated to a medley of flavors that dance harmoniously. The dominant notes of black cherries and plums provide a luscious sweetness, while the subtle undertones of florals add a layer of sophistication to the overall experience. The inclusion of hints of minerality introduces a delightful earthy aspect, contributing to the wine’s depth.

What sets this vintage apart is its well-balanced tannins, which add structure without overwhelming the palate. The tannins provide a velvety texture that enhances the overall mouthfeel, making it a luxurious and enjoyable wine.

This Gigondas Tradition 2016 is particularly well-suited for enthusiasts who appreciate a wine that marries spiciness with the bright, intense flavors of cherries. The lush character of the wine makes it a perfect companion for those who enjoy bold and flavorful profiles.

In summary, Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas Tradition 2016 is a wine of depth and complexity, offering a sensory journey through its enticing aromas, rich flavors, and well-integrated tannins. It stands as a testament to the craftsmanship and dedication of the winemakers, making it an excellent choice for those seeking a memorable and indulgent wine experience.

© Dr. Elinor Garely. This copyright article, including photos, may not be reproduced without written permission from the author.