Marche, located south of Emilia-Romagna, east of Tuscany and Umbria, and north of Abruzzo, boasts a diverse landscape shaped by the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea. Ancona, its capital and largest city, graces the coastline with a population of approximately 100,000.
Le Marche, as it’s known, stands as a formidable wine region, not merely because it nurtured Cesare Mondavi, founder of one of America’s esteemed wine dynasties. The region’s blend of calcareous and limestone soil sets a strong foundation for viticulture, while its transition from Mediterranean warmth to continental crispness offers a varied climate that enriches the wines produced here.
Though often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors—Abruzzo to the south, and Umbria and Tuscany to the west—this region produces exceptional wines. The name “Le Marche” derives from the medieval communes that once thrived in the area. Ancona, the regional capital, historically served as a significant port for various civilizations, including the Roman Empire. Today, Le Marche beckons with its stunning coastline, drawing countless tourists to its white sandy beaches, towering cliffs, and crystalline waters.
However, it’s inland where the wine story truly unfolds. Bordered by the Apennine Mountain Range to the west and the Adriatic Sea to the east, the region offers a mosaic of terroirs, characterized by calcareous and limestone-rich soils. While the southern reaches enjoy a Mediterranean maritime influence, the northern territories exhibit a more continental climate. Le Marche boasts an array of DOCs (15) and DOCGs (5), reflecting its rich viticultural heritage and commitment to quality winemaking.
Marche annually produces approximately 10.7 million cases of wine, equivalent to over 120 million bottles. Of this quantity, about 60% lacks specific classification, referred to as vino da tavola or table wine. Much of this is intended for local consumption or distribution. The remaining 40% falls into three categories based on origin and production methods. The largest category is DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), indicating wines produced from grapes grown in defined areas, adhering to specific composition and production standards. Marche boasts 15 DOCs.
Ancient Beginnings
The Piceni and Roman Eras
The history of winemaking in the Marche region of Italy stretches back over 2,500 years, originating with the ancient Piceni people who inhabited the area. They were among Italy’s earliest winemakers, cultivating grapes and producing wine in the pre-Roman era, before 300 BC. When the Romans conquered the region in the 3rd century BC, they not only continued the Piceni’s viticultural practices but also expanded them, planting more vineyards and refining the winemaking processes.
Medieval Flourish
The Benedictine Influence
Winemaking in Marche flourished during the Middle Ages, particularly under the care of Benedictine monks. These monks cultivated vineyards and produced wines primarily for religious purposes, establishing the foundation for the region’s enduring winemaking traditions. During this period, the Verdicchio grape was firmly established as Marche’s signature white variety, setting a standard for quality that persists today.
Renaissance to 19th Century
Expansion and Challenges
From the Renaissance through to the 19th century, winemaking in Marche continued to thrive. Areas such as Jesi and Matelica became renowned for their exceptional wines. By the 16th and 17th centuries, the reputation of Marche wines extended well beyond the local region. However, the 19th century brought significant challenges, particularly the devastating phylloxera epidemic, which decimated many vineyards and led to a period of decline in the region’s winemaking industry.
20th Century Revival
Modernization and Recognition
After recovering from the phylloxera epidemic, the 20th century marked a renaissance in Marche winemaking. The establishment of DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) laws provided protected status to key regional wines such as Verdicchio and Rosso Conero, ensuring their quality and heritage were preserved. Investments in modernizing vineyards and wineries further improved the quality of Marche wines, positioning the region as a significant player in the Italian wine industry.
Contemporary Marche
Tradition Meets Innovation
Today, Marche balances its ancient winemaking traditions with innovative and sustainable viticulture techniques. The region, although relatively small, has shown substantial potential, particularly in organic farming. Over 5,600 hectares are now bio-certified, with organic farming growing at a rate of approximately 7% per year.
Academic and Research Excellence
The region’s dedication to quality and innovation is also reflected in its strong emphasis on education and research. Several renowned institutions contribute to the advancement of agricultural and viticultural knowledge:
· The Agricultural Institute of Macerata. Played a crucial role in developing agricultural knowledge following Italy’s unification.
· The Accademia Georgica of Treia. One of the world’s oldest institutions dedicated to agricultural studies.
· The University of Camerino. Famous for its botany faculty and contributions to agricultural science.
· The Politecnica Marche. A well-regarded research center known for its studies in various fields, including viticulture.
Quality and Potential of Marche Wines
Despite occasional challenges, such as the presence of flawed or overly diluted wines due to high yields, the general standard of winemaking in Marche is impressively high. With a bit of knowledge, wine enthusiasts can easily find exceptional wines from the region. The future of Marche winemaking looks bright, promising continued growth and increasing recognition for its dedication to both tradition and innovation.
Overall, Marche wines are known for their complexity, balance, and character, which are the result of the combination of the region’s terroir, climate, and winemakers’ tradition and expertise. They offer a wide variety of flavors and taste that can please different palates and pair well with different dishes.
The most notable characteristics of Marche wines include:
- Crisp acidity, minerality, and distinctive nutty notes (especially when aged in oak barrels)
- Rich, complex flavors and aromas with notes of citrus and tropical fruitsÂ
- Rich, full-bodied flavors, and complimentary tannins with a long finishÂ
- Notes of spices, leather, tobacco, plumbs, and cherriesÂ
- Balance and character
My Personal Opinion
If you are in the wine industry, you know that Angela Carletti Velenosi is a force to be reckoned with. Born on May 4, 1961, she entered the wine industry in 1983, at the age of 20. She had no prior experience or family heritage in winemaking; however, without experience or a wine education she and her Ercole learned and mastered everything from viticulture to the technical intricacies of winemaking including the business operations required to run a winery.
She was able to enter the wine industry thanks to the Italian government who offered her a 3 million lira low-interest loan to encourage her to open a winery in the Marche region. This financial support was crucial in enabling her to start the enterprise as it provided the capital needed to invest in vineyards, and equipment, facilitation growth and development.
Her modest beginning included two wines and a mere 9 hectares of vineyards. Today she is a prominent figure in the Italian wine industry, renowned for her innovative approach and dedication to crafting exceptional wines. Her winery currently includes a portfolio of 34 wines and spans 148 hectares, standing as one of Marche’s preeminent family-owned wineries.
Velenosi wines are exported to 50 countries and the portfolio includes meticulously crafted whites, reds, and rosés. From the crisp and aromatic Verdicchio whites to the robust and elegant Montepulciano reds, Velenosi offers something for every palate.
As the founder and driving force behind Velenosi Wines, she has played a pivotal role in elevating the reputation of the Marche region as a producer of high-quality wines and a significant contributor to the revival and promotion of the local grape varieties like Passerina and Pecorino.
Angela’s entrepreneurial ability shone brightly as she moved through the predominantly male-dominated viticultural landscape of the 1980s. Her steadfast commitment to excellence and unyielding passion for wine served as catalysts for her success, earning her recognition as one of the pioneering women in Italy to establish a winery. Angela’s credo, encapsulated in her assertion that “passion was in her blood,” resonates throughout her remarkable accomplishments with Velenosi Winery.
Transitioning into the role of President of the Consorzio dei Vini Piceni provided an enlightening experience, shifting her perspective from singular to plural. This broader outlook encompasses a myriad of experiences, from the viewpoint of small producers to farmers and winemakers, all integral members of the Consorzio. Embracing this diversity facilitates personal growth and a deeper understanding of the sector’s nuances. Negotiating the complexities of political dynamics within the Consorzio adds another layer of challenge, as Angela strives to find common ground by mediating between stakeholders and representing the collective interests of its members.