Sicily at the Toe
Located to the south of Italy and surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily is just beyond the toe of the Italian peninsula. It is the most extended region in Italy and the widest island in the Mediterranean. Because of its geographical location, it is considered to be a bridge between the European continent and Africa from which it is separated by the Strait of Sicily. Today, Sicily is an autonomous region of Italy.
Never Dull
With a population of approximately 5 million people, 1.2 million live in the capital of Palermo. Sicilian terrain is an interesting mix of hills (61 percent), mountains (25 percent) and flat terrain (14 percent). The northeast section of the Island is distinguished by the mountain chain with the highest active volcano in Europe, Mount Etna. A mild climate with long summers that are hot and dry and warm winters makes Sicily a year-round destination.
The economy of Sicily is based on tourism, agriculture (wheat, barley, corn, olives, citrus fruit, oranges, lemons, almonds, wine grapes and cotton) plus tuna and sardine fisheries and a growing wine industry- making a trip through Sicily a foodie’s heaven.
Sicily is perhaps most well-known because of Cinema Paradiso, Giuseppe di Lampedusa’s The Leopard, the Marlon Brando horse’s head, and the Corleone clan. While Milan runs away with publicity from high-end fashion, Rome claims fame for being “hot” and Tuscany is considered lovely and mellow; Sicily is delicious because it is hotter, older, slower and clings tightly to its historical roots. Even George Lucas finds Sicily drama-worthy…he recently brought a film crew to capture an erupting Mt. Etna for a scene in the Star Wars series which takes place on a volcanic planet.
First the Greeks
The history of Sicily starts with domination by the Greeks; Cicero described Syracuse as the greatest and most beautiful city of all Ancient Greece. Greek Syracuse controlled most of the eastern area of Sicily with the Carthaginian colonies dominating the far west of the island. Ultimately there was a culture clash that developed into the longest war of antiquity. Power moved from the Romans and back to the Greeks and then to the Arabs until they were defeated in 1091 when Sicily became controlled by the Normans. During this period Sicily became prosperous and so politically influential it was considered to be one of the wealthiest nations in Europe.
After the Napoleonic Wars, Sicily and Naples merged and the Two Sicilies came under the rule of the Bourbons. Finally, in 1848, Sicily became independent and the Mafia, a loose confederation of organized crime networks, became influential although the Fascist regime began an effort to suppress them – starting in the 1920s.
Diversity Embraced
Sicily shows its many cultures: Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman, French and Spanish…they all left their mark in artistic and architectural works. Sicily is one the Italian regions with the biggest endowment of archaeological resources. With 70 museums and 65 parks, visitors can enjoy some of the most beautiful Greek temples and amphitheaters in Sicily instead of looking for them in Greece. UNESCO has recognized the sites as part of the World Natural and Cultural Heritage Registry and they include the: archeological area of Agrigento, Roman Villa of Casale (Piazza Armenina), baroque cities of Val di Noto and Palazzol Acreide, Aeolian Islands, Syracuse (Siracusa) and cliff- top Necropolis of Pantalica.
There are a great number of castles, villas, aristocratic residences, monumental noble buildings, churches, ancient convents, cloisters, monasteries, theatre and art galleries – making Sicily a prime destination for tourists with an interest in history and culture.
Do Not Miss
• Palermo. The regional capital of Sicily with 1 million people representing the wave of cultures that found this region desirable. The city clings to the past and the Arabic origins can be touched and savored especially in the spectacular mosaics in the Palatine Chapel and Duomo of Monreale
• Catania. Sicily’s second largest city with a population of approximatey 300,000. Located on the Ionian Sea near Mt. Etna. The volcano has erupted on several occasions and destroyed the city. In the 17th century Catania was covered with lava and 24 years later there was an earthquake. The town was rebuilt in Baroque style with large, wide open squares and avenues. The material used: lava! A visit to Catania starts in the main square, Piazza Duomo with the surrounding buildings designed by Giovanni Battista Vaccarini from Palermo
• Trapani. Founded by the Elymians as an agricultural center and later an important port thanks to the efforts of the Phoenicians it was the setting for famous naval battles with the Romans
– Take the cable car to Erice and visit Pepoli Castle (Arab construction) and Venus Castle (Norman construction)
– Visit the nearby wine center of Marsala
Where to Sleep
• Palermo
After an 8.5 hour flight from JFK – there is a definite need for a shower, a drink and a nap. The recommended hotel in Palermo is the 52-room boutique Grand Hotel Wagner. Named after the famous German composer, Richard Wagner who lived briefly in the original building. This property brings old-world design into the 21 century, creating an environment that is both elegant and charming. With frescoes, marble floors, and engraved glass doors, this is Sicilian indulgence that could be (but is not) overwhelmingly brash.
The Wagner was originally a palazzo in the neoclassical style, built at the beginning of the 20th century. Centrally located it is within walking distance of restaurants, bars, cinemas and historical buildings. The hotel features a fitness center and spa, along with meeting rooms and Wi-Fi.
• Agrigento
It is important to note that the Hotel Villa Athena, Hotel Valle dei Templi Agrigento is a member of Small Luxury Hotels (SLH) of the World – which immediately assures guests that the property is unique and charming. Strategically located within the Archaeological Park of the Valley of the Temples, the hotel is very close to the Temple of Concordia that dates back to the 5th century BC.
• Ragusa
Part of the Preferred Hotel Collection, Donnafugata Golf Resort is a wonderful destination hotel. Located 10 miles from the Comiso Airport and 62 miles from Catania International Airport, it is only a 10 minute drive to the center of Ragusa. This 202 – room property offers guests two 18-hole championship golf-courses, a spa and fitness center, swimming pools, three restaurants and wine bar, lots of well-designed meeting rooms and acres of land for running, biking and meandering. It is near the seaside towns of Marina di Ragusa, Punta Secca and Camerina and close to UNESCO World Heritage sites.
• Ragusa
Hotel Antico Convento Quaranta celle in Hybla is a wonderful restoration of a 17th century convent and located in a public garden at one end of Ragusa Ibla. Originally cells, the spaces have been creatively combined to provide unique but comfortable accommodations for sleeping, dining and learning (there is a cooking school on premise).
Where to Shop
Souvenirs of Sicily can be found everywhere; however, this classy destination requires a purchase that clearly lets the world know that you have an excellent fashion sense and purchase only the best jewelry design – when you see it.
• Grazia Gioielli Jewelry
Located on the Taormina shopping street, Grazia features incredibly beautiful and original jewels that will not break the budget. From gold leaf and ebony bracelets ($340) to jewelry made from fossils with a leather rope ($1180) – these unique pieces will be coveted by friends and family for generations.
Facebook.com/pages/Grazia-Gioielli-Taormina-Via-Giovanni-di-Giovanni
• Izzo Jewelry
Carlo Izzo is the designer of fabulous jewelry that is found in his shop in Siracusa. He was born in Milan and has lived in Syracuse since 1969. His passion for art began in the workshop of his maternal grandfather who was a blacksmith and forged fittings for the church of Saint Antonio in Messina (i.e., chandeliers, candlesticks, gates, railings, and bells). Izzo studied to be a goldsmith, attended prestigious Italian schools and selected the path of a craftsman in 1984. He expresses his passion for nature and marine life though the use of corals, starfish and sea horses. He fuses stones and precious metals to bring elegant designs that can be worn and adored for generations. His jewels were worn by Monica Bellucci in the film, Malena.
• La Pasticceria Grammatico Maria
This is a very small shop on a very small and narrow street in Erice that, based on the number of people hovering over the cakes, cookies and other pastries – is a very important stop for everyone visiting Sicily. The tiny shop offers the world’s best cannoli, Sicilian cassata and almond pastries.
The owner of the shop, Maria Grammatico, presents her treats that are based on recipes developed by Franciscan nuns in 400. The ingredients and products are made the same way they were created 5 centuries ago. Made by hand, they demonstrate the art and skills of the Sicilian confectioner. Maria Grammatico runs classes for students who want to learn the fine art of making Sicilian abbey treats.
Much to Do. So Little Time
It would be easy to spend a year in Sicily. A month or two in each of the small towns, walking the cobbled streets that have not changed in thousands of years, poking into the gardens, churches, and museums could easily fill days and small charming cafes open along the winding streets could quickly fill in any blank spaces for evening activities. This is not a destination for rushing! It is a destination to be savored with a very special significant other.
Monthly Sicily
Sicily is a year-round destination with unique experiences that include:
1. January. The coolest month in the Sicilian mountains with snow of Mt. Etna’s ski trails. It is the perfect time to try sea urchins, broccoli (sparacelli) and cardoon (related to the artichoke). Acireale (near Catania) Sicily’s most extravagant carnival
2. February. Golfers favor this month also good for crunchy almonds (Argrigento) and almond marzipan pastries (pasta reale)
3. March. Windy and rainy but excellent for holiday treats for the Feast of St. Agatha including sfingi (pastries similar to Neapolitan zeppole) and efincione (cheese-less pizza)
4. April. Try fritedda made with artichokes, fresh fava bean and other green vegetables (i.e., fennel), granite (ices) and ice cream in fruity flavors; cheese festival near Catania
5. May. Palermo celebrates World Festival on the Mondello Beach with sporting events
6. June. Head for the beach and eat mulberries and strawberries. Taormina Film Festival at the hilltop Greek amphitheater in Taormina (Sicilian and Italian movies)
7. July. The beginning of summer (very little rain) and the season to eat ground snails
8. August. Beaches are filled with Italians on holiday and many shops and restaurants are closed. Time to enjoy figs, watermelon and citron and watch grapes being harvested for wine making. Look for pistachios, almonds and other nuts, prickly pears (fichi d’India) and the arrival of rain. In Trapani people celebrate the couscous festival
9. September. Look for olive harvests and street vendors selling chestnuts. With warm days and cool evenings – this is perhaps the best month for sightseeing and touring. Palermo di Scena Festival with music, theatre and cinema
10. October. Celebration of All Saints and All Souls, marking the harvesting of oranges. Feasts are celebrated with hard biscuits served with fortified wines like Moscato or Malvasia. Novello (Sicily’s nouveau wine) goes on sale the third week in the month. Sheep begin to produce milk used to make ricotta (filling for cannoli and cassata); pistachio festival in Bronte
11. November. Feast of Saint Martin and time to enjoy wine tastings and local produce in Linguaglossa, Giarre and Milo
12. December. On December 13 celebrate Saint Lucy Day. The patroness of Syracuse is honored with rice balls (arancini) or wheat-berry pudding (cuccia) to mark her saving the island from starvation (1643). Fruitcake (buccellato or panforte) is enjoyed
Getting to Sicily
Meridiana has frequent flights from JFK directly to Palermo. It is hard to believe, but the delightful in-flight service personnel are so pleasant – that the flight actually becomes an enjoyable experience. The coach seats seem to be a bit larger than American aircraft making the 8+ hour flight a bit more comfortable. For flight information: meridian.it
WHAT TO TAKE AWAY FROM THIS ARTICLE:
- The economy of Sicily is based on tourism, agriculture (wheat, barley, corn, olives, citrus fruit, oranges, lemons, almonds, wine grapes and cotton) plus tuna and sardine fisheries and a growing wine industry- making a trip through Sicily a foodie's heaven.
- Because of its geographical location, it is considered to be a bridge between the European continent and Africa from which it is separated by the Strait of Sicily.
- The city clings to the past and the Arabic origins can be touched and savored especially in the spectacular mosaics in the Palatine Chapel and Duomo of Monreale.
